Inland Sea Kayakers: Trip Reports

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Stockton Island - June 30-July 4, 2000
by Jody Russell
(Slightly too large movie footage from this trip at bottom of page.)

This trip report will start at the end of the trip. I found myself a few hours after my return, at night, at the grocery store, fairly grubby after the trip...grimy jeans, hair flat after hours under a hat, sunburned face, and an uncertain comfort level with having not yet cleaned up in the shower. I stood before the meat counter trying to decide how to fill the refrigerator for the upcoming days. The choices seemed overwhelming. Having spent a few days eating out of dry sacks (and a bear box), the options available were simply too much. The butcher came over, seeing my expression of bewilderment, and asked if he could help me. My brief explanation ("I'm not sure what I'm doing here -- I'm tired and dirty after kayak camping...") led to the butcher's tales of hiking Isle Royale, the woods, the trails, the lake, the beauty. His words revived me and I finally left with some food and the images of Lake Superior in my mind.

We paddled on July 1 from Bayfield to Stockton Island, stopping at Basswood and Hermit on the way. Encountering some difficulties with one boat and with the weather made this a long day. photo map

We got into Presque Isle, a large bay on Stockton Island, around 4:30 that afternoon. Due to the lateness of our arrival, we ended up with two campsites about a half mile apart which caused some logistical difficulties, but we were able to work around them. The storm that hit us Saturday night amazed us all. The thunder and lightning were completely around us. Lightning even struck a tree on the trail with some of the group ahead of it and some behind it. Our return trip on July 4th was uneventful. The water was completely calm, allowing us to see deep into the lake as we set out early in the morning.

Our days on Lake Superior were in some ways as typical as kayaking on the lake can possibly be. We experienced wind (without paddling we moved at over 4 mph), gale force winds (50 mph can really mess up a steak dinner), following seas, glass-like calm, sudden thunder storms, rain, and of course, sunshine. We were able to get some experience in navigation (Chuck's diagrams in the sand with stones were memorable), towing (Linda and Chuck rarely get to practice that!), trimming one's boat correctly (Susie will never load the weight in the bow again for sure), and group dynamics (anxiety during lightning can lead to a fair amount of dissension).

"But I love my GPS!"

"Will this horse go straight?"

"I brought the most hats..."

It was also a time to try out new gear -- Chuck's new tarp was put through its true test in fierce winds, Jody's outback oven made some welcome rainy morning coffee cake, and Jeff S's tent poles bent in odd directions. We also enjoyed a variety of food -- always a highlight for me -- brie, crackers, couscous, wine and asparagus can make a great dinner during a massive storm. Asiago cheese turns out to be good on everything in sight. And Jeremy and Annette's dessert of Pound Cake a la Blue(berry) was outstanding.

Holding the tarp down in 50 mph wind...

...and rain...

...and darkness.

One of the highlights for me was the day trip to Michigan Island. It was an easy paddle, complete with a beach-side navigation lesson. Michigan Island has a set of over one hundred steps which run from the beach to the grassy area where the lighthouse sits. Then we had a tour from Gene, one of the Apostle Island volunteers who knows the history and feel of the lighthouse keepers from the mid 1800s.

Michigan Island

Original lighthouse

Second lighthouse

Bayfield was welcoming and warm when we returned on the fourth. And my journey ended with friends sitting outside watching the harbor bustle, enjoying large double scoop ice cream cones.

Movie Clip